top of page
Search

A full day of birding at Brazo del Este

  • 4 days ago
  • 5 min read

Updated: 17 hours ago

Brazo del Este has a way of surprising you even before you properly start exploring it. The area, located just over the Cádiz border inside the province of Seville, is a former branch of the Guadalquivir River that was cut off from the main channel decades ago. What remains today is a vast wetland system of canals, shallow lagoons, rice fields, and reed beds stretching across a remarkably flat landscape.


Aerial view of a vibrant blue wetland with scattered green reed islands, adjacent to a dirt road.

It covers well over a thousand hectares and has long been considered one of the most interesting birdwatching hotspots in Andalusia. Part of its appeal lies in how artificial and natural elements blend: abandoned meanders, man-made irrigation channels, agricultural land, and restored marshes coexist to form a habitat mosaic that attracts an impressive amount of birdlife throughout the year.


Aerial view of serene wetland with blue water, green grass islands, and expansive fields under clear blue sky.

From a birder’s perspective, the site is both accessible and immensely rewarding. The main track is wide, easy to drive, and long enough to keep you busy for an entire day. Even a quick stop can turn into hours of observation. Because the water levels vary depending on the season and the rice-field management, different sections of the area can look completely different from one visit to the next. What remains constant is the diversity—and quantity—of birds. It is the kind of place where you roll down your window and immediately feel that it will be a long, entertaining day.


A brown eagle soars in a clear blue sky, wings fully spread.
Booted Eagle

That feeling proved right this time. As soon as I arrived, I counted roughly a dozen species without moving more than a few meters: several Booted Eagles circling overhead, Cormorants drying their wings on irrigation structures, Chiffchaffs flicking through low vegetation, Grey Herons standing motionless in the shallows. Every direction I looked offered new movement or sound. It set the tone for the next seven hours.


A cormorant perched on a branch against a clear blue sky, wings partially spread.
Great Cormorant

Grey heron in flight against a blurred leafy background, wings outstretched.
Grey Heron right after jumping off a branch

A white egret perches on a tree branch in a dense, grassy wetland.
Great Egret

A small, yellow bird in mid-flight against a blurred blue background.
Chiffchaff


Sparrow perched on a dry branch against a clear blue sky.
Male Spanish Sparrow

Six cranes flying in a V-formation against a clear blue sky.
Six Cranes announcing their arrival with trumpeting sounds

Driving along the main track, the sequence of lagoons, canals, and flooded patches revealed an endless series of photographic opportunities. The advantage of Brazo del Este is how close everything is to the road. Many birds feed just a few meters away, relatively unbothered by cars, allowing for detailed observation with binoculars. A telescope is helpful when birds venture deeper into the reeds or when you want to scan the distant sections of open water, but most of the time binoculars are more than enough.



A brown heron with streaked feathers stands on a rock amid green foliage.
Squacco Heron


Ducks float on a lake with autumnal trees in the background.
Shovelers and Teals


A white stork with black wingtips soars in a clear blue sky, wings fully extended.
White Stork

A black stork with a red beak flies low over a grassy, open field. Distant birds are visible in the background.
Black Stork


Flock of brown birds flying in a clear blue sky.
Part of a flock of Glossy Ibis


A heron stands in a muddy wetland with dry reeds in the background.
It's always a good idea to wait patiently when you see a Grey Heron wading through the mud

Grey heron catches a fish in its beak in a marshy area with tall reeds and green plants.
You often end up with great images

A heron with grey and white feathers catches a fish in its beak amidst tall reeds.


Reeds border a calm water channel reflecting the blue sky.


One of the most striking aspects of the visit was the sheer number of birds present. I rarely see densities like this, even in other well-known hotspots. Large flocks of Spanish Sparrows moved restlessly between fields, creating a constant background of sound and motion. Above them, the sky frequently filled with thousands of Glossy Ibis. Their collective movement formed shifting, pulsating clouds, sometimes mixed with Little Egrets or Cattle Egrets.


A large flock of birds in flight with blurred motion.
Part of a huge flock of Spanish Sparrows

Flock of birds flying over golden reeds against a mountain backdrop.
Thousands of Glossy Ibises

Watching them come together, split apart, and reorganize was mesmerizing. Scenes like that are usually reserved for places like Doñana or La Janda, but Brazo del Este matches them in spectacle, and in some moments, surpasses them.


A flock of birds flies over a marsh with tall grasses. The sky is clear with few clouds.
Huge flock of Glossy Ibises

A large flock of birds in flight fills the blue sky.


A large flock of birds flies over a landscape with trees.


Equally impressive was the number of Black-winged Stilts. It is a common species, familiar to anyone who spends time near wetlands, but seeing hundreds gathered in one place adds a new dimension to their elegance. Their high-pitched calls carried over the water as they moved in loose groups, their long legs creating pink reflections in the still surface. I cannot remember another occasion where I have seen them in such high concentration.


Flock of black-and-white birds flying and wading in a marsh with grasses.
Countless Black-winged Stilts
Flock of birds wading by a lake with grassy banks and bushes.


Raptors were active as well. Marsh Harriers patrolled constantly, drifting low over the reeds and sending entire groups of resting birds into sudden panic. I counted around a dozen individuals across the entire area. Their presence added tension to an otherwise calm landscape. Every so often a harrier would drop slightly, causing a wave of birds to rise in a chaotic burst before settling again further away.


A brown and white bird of prey soars against a clear blue sky.
Red Kite

An Osprey gliding against a clear blue sky, wings fully spread.
Osprey


Abird of prey soars over a field of tall, golden reeds against a clear blue sky.
A Marsh Harrier comes in high, preparing another stealth attack

Flock of black-and-white birds with long red legs flying over blue water.
Every approach by a Marsh Harrier caused panic among the Black-winged Stilts

Flock of birds flying and wading in a blue marsh with green-brown vegetation in the background.
Total chaos

A brown bird of prey soars over a field of tall, dry grasses.
The Marsh Harrier is now flying very low...

A bird with dark wings flies low over a grassy field, its wings spread.
...and becomes difficult to spot

A bird of prey flies with white birds and a distant flock in a blue sky.
But really all she wants is to have some fun


ree

One of the most unexpected moments of the day came while I was photographing the landscape. A deep roaring noise echoed across the marsh, loud enough to make me glance up searching for a plane. But instead of an aircraft, a flock of about forty Glossy Ibis appeared in a steep, fast dive, producing that unusual vibration with their wings as they descended. The sound was raw and wild, unlike anything else I have heard from a bird flock. They plunged toward a lagoon in perfect coordination, pulling up only at the last moment before spreading out to land. It was a short event, maybe ten seconds in total, but it stayed with me the rest of the day.


Flock of birds in flight over a grassy wetland near a pond, with distant trees in the hazy background.
Glossy Ibises approaching unexpectedly

Flock of birds, including ibises, flying and wading in a calm, blue water setting.
The ibises peacefully join the Black-winged Stilts


Flock of birds flying against a pale sky with tall grasses in the foreground.
Silhouettes of Glossy Ibises flying past

Although we are at the end of autumn, the weather was unexpectedly mild—almost springlike. Light winds, soft temperatures, and clear skies made the hours pass pleasantly. The visibility was extraordinary: to my surprise, even from this low wetland terrain, I could clearly see the distant mountains of Grazalema rising roughly fifty kilometres away. Their silhouette brought back memories of a previous hike to El Torreón, the highest peak in the province of Cádiz. Seeing those mountains from the marsh created a nice contrast—one landscape quiet and horizontal, the other rugged and towering.


Flock of birds flying over a misty mountain range under a clear blue sky.
Flock of Glossy Ibis flying south, with Grazalema mountains in the far background

The longer I stayed, the harder it became to imagine leaving. Brazo del Este is one of those places where time accelerates. You think you have been there for an hour, and suddenly three have passed. I paused several times simply to stand outside the car, listen to the murmur of birds, and watch the shifting patterns of the flocks. It is easy to understand why many birders bring food and water and spend the entire day here. There is always something happening somewhere in the marsh.


A white egret stands on a brown sheep in a grassy field.
Cattle Egrets were enjoying a free ride on the sheep's backs


White bird with wings spread stands on a sheep's wooly back.
'Hey, to the right, I said!'



Birds in flight over a lake, with splashes visible. Reed stems frame the foreground.
Coots landing near the border of one of the lagoons


Six white birds with long beaks fly in formation against a clear blue sky.
Spoonbills

Black stork in flight against a clear blue sky. The bird's wings are spread wide, showing off its black and white plumage.
One of the four Black Storks that made an appearance

In total, I spent more than seven hours exploring, photographing, and observing. The only reason I eventually turned back was the sinking sun.


Tall grass silhouettes against a vibrant yellow sunset, with a cloudy sky.


Sunset over a calm lake with silhouettes of ducks swimming.


The golden light illuminated the reeds and the last loose groups of ibis heading to their roost, creating a peaceful end to a lively day. As I left the area, I felt the same thought forming that many birders have after visiting Brazo del Este: I will be back soon.



Comments

bottom of page